Magazine July 2017

The textile world at a glance: From litespeed® plus to dur

Just an image

Man has been decorating all kinds of materials with embroidery since the beginning of time. In particular the masterly silk embroidery from China, which has always been produced by hand and exclusively by men in the old days, has enjoyed international renown for centuries. But today they are the exception, as most embroidery work is now produced using computer-controlled machines. And there are no limits to creativity. Sequin embroidery is currently on-trend thanks to the introduction of reversible sequins to the world of children's fashion.

Different embroidery techniques

In the traditional embroidery process, different designs are embroidered on finished or unfinished items of clothing. Today, computer-controlled embroidery machines are capable of stitching even elaborate designs precisely and in multiple colors. Each embroidery head is equipped with multiple needles guiding different colors of yarn. The different yarn colors are stitched on one after the other by the embroidery machine to create the relevant design.

Just an imageCord embroidery

In addition to the traditional embroidery process, cord or loop embroidery has also stood the test of time to this day. In this technique, cord yarn is used to stitch a string onto the backing to produce sublime decorative effects.

Just an image3D embroidery

A similar effect can also be achieved with 3D embroidery, where foam is fixed to the plain cloth with adhesive and then stitched over. The excess foam is removed, but the 3D effect on the stitched parts remains in place.

Sequin embroidery

Just an imageSequined embroidery

Sequins are small and extremely thin plates made from metal or coated plastic with a diameter of 4─10mm. The shiny effect created by light reflections and movement makes them particularly popular for decorating clothing and accessories. The sequins are usually sewn on to the textile base, but can also be stuck on or stitched.

The sequins are stitched on using conventional embroidery machines as standard, equipped with the relevant machine accessories. The sequins are supplied to the embroidery machine on strips. The needle enters the hole in the center of the sequin and fixes the sequin on the backing with a lockstitch.

Just an imageCushions with reversible sequins – photo: Pro-Idee GmbH & Co. KG

A wide range of designs with so-called reversible sequins are currently on-trend. The sequins are colored on both sides and mounted on the backing so that they can be turned over by running your hand over them. This means that two designs can be achieved with one stitching process. The "magic sequins" are particularly popular in children's fashion, but this technique is also used in adult clothing for cocktail dresses or party skirts.

Technical embroidery

Today, the process of machine embroidery is not only used for decoration on clothing, but for other textiles too. It is increasingly used in the field of technical textiles. In this field, specific fibers, electrical conductors, sensors or batteries are fixed to a textile.

Fixing these fibers or other elements with an embroidery machine offers a number of advantages compared with conventional sewing: With a computer-controlled embroidery machine, the stitches can be positioned extremely precisely and the direction and size of the stitches can also be freely selected. Once the embroidery program has been created and optimized, the result can be reproduced infinitely.

Tailored Fiber Placement (TFP) has established itself in particular in the field of technical textiles. In this process, the material (fibers, strips, sensors etc.) are fixed on the backing with a special embroidery head. The material to be applied is not pierced with the needle, but "tacked on" with the upper thread. This creates reinforcing structures that can also be adapted to three-dimensional, curved shapes. TFP is currently used predominantly in lightweight construction, in the automotive field and in aerospace engineering.

The needle as a tool

The needle has always played a key role as a tool in embroidery. The requirements placed on the needle have increased consistently through the use and development of embroidery machines. The growing range of embroidery materials and the ever more demanding requirements on design have left their mark. Embroidery machine needles from Groz-Beckert deliver immaculate results even at very high embroidery speeds and when using different materials and yarns. The geometry and features of the needles are optimally aligned for use with embroidery machines. Not only you, but your customers will be impressed by the resulting product.

Needles for single and multihead embroidery

The needle commonly used for single and multihead embroidery is the DB x K5, which was specially developed for use in embroidery machines. Its increased deflection resistance, the larger eye and the shortened point reduce the risk of skipped stitches and thread breakage through secure holding of the loop and provide maximum protection for the thread and material.

For stitching robust materials like baseball caps or leather, Groz-Beckert has developed the special application needle DB x K5 SAN® 1 GEBEDUR®. Thanks to its design properties and the titanium nitride coating, this special version also offers maximum wear protection and optimal stability.

Just an imageSpecial application needle DB x K5 SAN® 1 GEBEDUR®

Special features of the DB x K5 SAN® 1 GEBEDUR®:

1. The reinforced blade boosts needle stability, reducing needle deflection and breakage.

2. The new scarf design with scarf chamfer leads to better loop pick-up, thereby reducing skip stitches and needle breakage; moreover it protects the looper.

3. The optimized geometry between eye and scarf also improves loop pick-up and further reduces the number of skip stitches.

4. The larger eye simplifies threading and facilitates smoother sliding of the thread in the eye of the needle.

5. The GEBEDUR® coating provides maximum protection against wear.

The application fields of Groz-Beckert embroidery machine needles:

Both the DB x K5 and the DB x K5 SAN® 1 GEBEDUR® are suitable for universal use; the DB x K5 SAN® 1 GEBEDUR® is also suitable for processing robust materials like caps or leather. The DB x K5 KK (with shortened shank) can also be used for producing caps. But it also offers significant advantages in sequin embroidery and for creating so-called 3D effects.

The Groz-Beckert product range for single and multihead embroidery:

Groz-Beckert offers a comprehensive range of machine needles for single- and multihead embroidery with different point styles, coatings and sizes. For more information on embroidery or sewing machine needles from Groz-Beckert, see our brochures Machine needles for single- and multihead embroidery or get in touch with the sewing experts at Groz-Beckert.

  • Did you know this?

    To protect you as a customer from counterfeit goods, that may not differ from the genuine product at first glance, but do not offer the quality of Groz-Beckert products ─ a DataMatrix code is included on every pack of 10. You can use this code to check that the needles are genuine via the "mygrozbeckert" app.